Heidi von der Mehden Makes a Mark at Merry Edwards
The influence of Merry Edwards on California wine was well established before she founded her eponymous establishment. As one of the first women to earn a higher degree in food science and enology from the University of California, Davis, Edwards helped shape the Russian River Valley’s identity. Her wines proved that pinot noir could be structured, expressive of its vineyard and reflective of its origin.
Her path was not without resistance. Early in her career, she was passed over for a winemaking position when a hiring manager assumed the name “Meredith” belonged to a man. She did not get the job, but she went on to plant the Meredith Vineyard, which would become one of Sonoma’s most recognized pinot noir sites.
Since Edwards’ retirement, her legacy has shaped the winery’s future. Heidi von der Mehden, a Sonoma County native and trained scientist who spent more than two years in the Peace Corps in Africa, worked closely with Edwards for several years before becoming head winemaker. Determined and open-minded, von der Mehden didn’t just inherit a title; she embraced a philosophy, gaining not only technical expertise but also a deep respect for listening to the vineyard.
“What drives me most is to respect Merry and all she did and honor that tradition; but I also know that she was also pushing the envelope forward. I need to keep innovating,” von der Mehden said.
Her first clear expression of this approach emerged in a unique project focused on sauvignon blanc, another grape with which the winery had achieved much acclaim over the years. This project became a significant step in carrying forward Edwards’ innovative spirit.
“But what I love about the challenge of making our wines is that it’s always new every year,” von der Mehden stated. “I strive to maintain the throughline by staying true to her lushness, but finesse it a bit toward my brighter style.”
In the Sebastopol Hills, a 2-acre block planted in 2004—now the estate’s oldest sauvignon blanc vineyard—became the base for von der Mehden’s first vineyard-designate wine. Unlike the estate’s other sauvignon blanc vineyards, which use mixed clones, this block is planted solely with the Musqué (musky) clone, distinctive for its expressive, aromatic profile.
“The grapes are some of the last ones I pick every year because of this cool location,” von der Mehden explained. “The coastal influence also helps keep the acid a little higher and the sugar lower. That means the alcohol is lower, too, which works well for the bright, balanced style of this wine.”
Von der Mehden also chose to vinify partially in an amphora—a first for Merry Edwards Winery. Amphorae are traditional clay vessels that allow gentle oxygen exchange, lending subtle texture and purity to the wine without oak influence.
“Dry, crisp, it’s not grassy but driven by lime, greener lemongrass. It’s totally different from our other sauvignon blancs,” von der Mehden said.
Meredith Estate’s sauvignon blanc debuted with the 2023 vintage, and the 2024 is now the current release. The wine is precise and bright, with a brilliant nose of citrus, key lime pie and tangerine, alongside floral and straw notes. Its vibrant, clean entry is balanced by a touch of creaminess and brisk acidity. The finish is pure and fresh. This sauvignon blanc stands out from the winery’s other offerings while staying true to clarity and vineyard character.
But the energy behind the project is as important as the wine itself.
“It’s so exciting when the team feels like they own it with you, and that is what makes this more inspiring. I have an amazing winemaking team,” she added.
To truly appreciate von der Mehden’s role, it helps to look back at Merry Edwards. Edwards is a key figure in modern California wine. Championing pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, she emphasized vineyard character, balance and restraint, even when those qualities were unfashionable. Her work helped establish the Russian River Valley’s reputation for elegance over power.
Now that legacy frames von der Mehden’s stewardship—not as imitation but as a renewed interpretation.
With von der Mehden at the helm, the winery’s bottlings continue to flow with the same principles: precision, structure and letting the vineyard’s character shine through. Yet, with new projects like the Meredith Estate sauvignon blanc, von der Mehden’s own vision takes shape, subtly and respectfully shifting the legacy from preservation to evolution.
