I first heard of San Miguel de Allende over a decade ago. Since then, the city—located in the eastern part of Guanajuato, Mexico—has won rave reviews from well-traveled friends, as well as being voted by the readers of Travel + Leisure magazine as the “No. 1 City in the World” in 2025. What makes San Miguel de Allende, or SMA to those who have visited and the many expats who call it home, such an amazing destination?
Imagine a charming European city being dropped into the middle of Mexico’s gently rolling hills. Picture its cobblestone streets, world-class cuisine, vibrant art community, friendly hospitality and artisanal shopping for every taste. In the spring of this year, my husband and I, along with some friends, journeyed to SMA to experience it firsthand.
Stay
During the first few nights of our trip, Casa Fuentes was our host. This lovely villa boasts a pool and three stories of beautifully decorated rooms. Above the third-floor bedroom is a serene rooftop deck, where one has views across El Centro, the walkable downtown district. The common areas of Casa Fuentes are equally as well-appointed as the guest rooms, and we were spoiled with concierge service and a special breakfast prepared by a private chef.
For the second half of our stay, we relocated to Hotel Matilda, a boutique hotel that housed a provocative contemporary art collection and bright murals throughout. Nestled behind what seemed to be antique doors along a cobblestone street, it was a perfect location to explore more of El Centro and the nearby Parque Benito Juárez. We enjoyed the serene pool and the Mediterranean-inspired menu at Moxi by Chef Vicente Torres.
Shop
No trip to San Miguel de Allende would be complete without strolling through the art galleries that appear on nearly every block. Exim Galeria was recommended by friends for its wide spectrum of art by regional artisans. It is located in the same building as the quaint Casa 1810 Hotel Boutique, which just won its second Michelin Key and has a much sought-after rooftop bar.
Stop in Velia Sierra Design for beautifully crafted Italian linen garments, which are 100% ethically made in Mexico. The service and shopping environment was the perfect destination before sipping on late-afternoon espresso martinis in the courtyard next door at Ziracco Trattoria Concetto.
Mixta, appropriately named for its mix of jewelry, accessories, clothing, home decor and textiles, is a lovingly curated store featured in fashion magazines around the world. It is the perfect boutique to pop in and purchase a unique gift to bring home—or a treat to remember the perfect day in SMA.
Play
We spent a lovely Sunday morning at Sazón Cooking School; its kitchen was spotless and recently renovated. Our chef-instructor greeted us, and within minutes we were all perusing the freshest ingredients from a nearby market. With his guidance and instruction, we made guacamole and homemade chicken mole—all using our shopping spoils purchased from local vendors. Never before had something I had a hand in making taste so fresh and flavorful!
Our favorite rooftop experience with the best views of the famed Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel—SMA’s skyline symbol—was Tunki Rooftop by Handshake cocktail bar at the Casa de Sierra Nevada. Like discovering a speakeasy, Tunki features cocktails from award-winning mixologists, like the “Pornstar Martini” and the “Flowerbomb.” The hotel, which hosts the bar, also appeared to be a courtyard oasis with a fabulous pool.
Dine
The Restaurant is situated in a courtyard illuminated by colorful lanterns in the evening. Founded by Chef Donnie Masterton, it features a robust cocktail list and what it calls “global comfort food.” We split several entradas, or entrees, including the sesame-crusted bluefin tuna and summer-sweet-corn- and-shrimp chowder. The “Toronja (grapefruit) Collins” mixed with locally made Casa Dragones, a small batch tequila brand, is not to be missed.
With an incredible view of the Templo de la Purísima Concepción, we enjoyed an afternoon snack at La Azotea (rooftop) tapas bar and restaurant. The jicama tacos—made from jicama “tortillas” and crispy shrimp drizzled with chipotle sauce—were the winning order, paired with guava margaritas.
Vegetarians will rejoice at Don Taco Tequila—the beet tacos were a must-have. The restaurant was cozy and energetic at the same time, and the mezcal cocktails were the perfect accompaniment to our meal.
Zibu Allende restaurant at the luxurious Live Aqua San Miguel Allende Hotel features a fusion of Asian and Mexican cuisines in a hip location. Our group went for the tuétano con pulpo, or bone marrow with octopus, but stayed for the arroz bibimbap, a Korean white rice dish topped with sauteed vegetables, seasoned meat, a fried egg and a chili pepper paste dollop. After dinner, we strolled around the property, admiring the artwork before enjoying drinks by the firepits.
After spending five nights at this magical destination, I now understand why San Miguel de Allende is revered by travelers, full-time explorers and locals alike. It showcases the best of culture cuisine, and commotion that make for a great visit—or even the perfect place to live. My only advice: Pack comfortable shoes to navigate El Centro’s cobblestones, come with a hearty appetite and be ready to find adventures in every courtyard.
